Words: Cass Chapman
Travelling abroad is a luxury, let’s face it. And travelling abroad with an entourage of kids to warmer climes during the winter months is, surely, one of the greatest luxuries of all. So while winter sun isn’t something we can always afford, or even face – long-haul travel, mosquito bites and seriously intense, seemingly never-ending jet-lag – it is good to know that when all the right factors converge at once (money, time off work, compliant kids), spa breaks with children really are possible.
I can promise you this having recently fled a wintery England for the little Thai gem that is Hua Hin. Home to the summer house of the Royal family, it is a town that sits on Thailand’s mainland peninsular about three hours by car from Bangkok. Edged with a national park and the beauty that is Black Mountain, it is a hell of a journey with toddlers, but don’t let that put you off.
Christmas had been long and very spoiling on many levels. Bloated with food and booze, my husband Jamie and I arrived in modern day Siam to breakfast on fresh fruit, swimming hourly, and sleeping deeply thanks to the very reasonable, very brutal local massages we enjoyed almost daily. All while our daughter Lola swam until she collapsed, collecting flowers from the local Frangipani trees and watching her father play golf at the Southeast Asian PGA course on Black Mountain (each to their own).
You can’t overlook the 12-hour flight time, or 7-hour time difference, but by way of compensation there isn’t a restaurant, luxury hotel, bar, spa or market stall where children aren’t welcomed with open smiles and a lot of affection. So someone else always has the energy to play with your little ones, even if you don’t. As Jamie and I sipped on an early evening cocktail, Lola would chatter with waitresses behind the bar and, at times, even in the restaurant kitchen. She was in heaven and so were we.
I arrived at Heathrow feeling tanned and zen as a Buddha, but several 3am starts thanks to Lola soon undid the good work
There are two sensational options for families on Hua Hin, depending on the age of your children. For under 12s, the Six Senses Evason, located just outside of Hua Hin town, is a must. The villa-only residences are immaculate and as luxurious as one would expect from the Six Senses brand – and each is nestled within 20 acres of tropical landscape that encompasses the property. The spa is a real pull: lotus ponds, traditional local massage and facials that stand head and shoulders above most will draw you back daily. Meanwhile, children will be more than happy at the Just Kids! Club where they’ll be properly supervised and able to enjoy everything from origami to model-making and, of course, lots and lots of swimming. Supervised sleepovers are arranged if they are really bonding with the other children, too.
In town, the Hilton Hua Hin Resort also boasts a fabulous spa (and let’s face it, most places in Thailand do), while the towering hotel with its rooftop bar (offering panoramic views across the port) also has a wonderful kids’ club. The children’s-only pool with its own slide and excellent staff supervision is, unsurprisingly, a huge hit.
And if your children are heading towards teenage-hood and happy in a more tranquil but equally beautiful spot, Chiva Som – a leader in world spa awards year after year – welcomes families with children aged 12 and over. It was Alexander McQueen’s favourite hideaway and with good reason. You’ll find yourself instantly calmed just for stepping foot on this sensational property, and there isn’t an angle or viewpoint that won’t take your breath away with its beauty. This beachfront resort is pierced with traditional wooden rooftop properties that silhouette against the sunset each day. There are no less than 70 treatment rooms at this destination spa and the kitchen will even arrange a wellness or detox diet if you really want to go the whole hog.
It may not seem immediately possible to blend a spa break with tots and long-haul travel, but this haven of tranquility on the Gulf of Siam makes it so. Just be prepared to save up for a once-in-a-lifetime experience – and then brace yourself for a few night’s of bad sleep once you get home. I arrived at Heathrow feeling tanned and zen as a Buddha, but several 3am starts soon undid the good work. Worth it, though – promise.